The Central Ohio Drum Call
In the Spotlight -Commentary
The Black Hair Care Tragicomedy
By James Clingman Jr.
The saddest part about this issue is the fact that we could see this one
coming. Now that it has hit its mark, right between our eyes, maybe the
pain will be severe enough not only to get our attention but also to hold
our attention long enough for us to rally our forces and fight back. The
Black Hair Care Industry (BHCI) has, once again, become a hot topic
among folks other than Koreans.

Now that an investigative documentary has been produced about the
industry, obviously shocking Black people once again, maybe some of
us will resolve to do something to reclaim at least a portion of that
vertical market. After all, the last time I checked, no one is using Black
hair care products except Black folks.

The documentary discloses information, none of which was news to
BHCI insiders, about the ownership of stores and distribution of hair
products sought and bought by Black people. The main point of the
report centered on the fact that Koreans own and control, and I do
mean control, the overwhelming majority of the distribution and sale of
Black hair care products, which includes shampoos, conditioners, oils
and creams, and those fashionable hairpieces our sisters love to wear.

Some Black folks have seen this coming since the 1980's, especially if
in light of the infamous but prophetic comments by then Revlon
executive, Irving Bottner, and the subsequent "funeral" and boycott of
Revlon Products headed by Jesse Jackson. Man, where is Jesse now?
We sure could use another funeral.

Nevertheless, as we looked on, and in some cases collaborated in the
demise of Black control of an industry that brags about Madame
Walker, Annie Turnbo-Malone, Anthony Overton, S.B. Fuller, and many
other Black hair care pioneers, the Koreans have used the past 20
years or so build their businesses and create wealth for their families.
Oh yeah, we still get to look good, and we are quite willing to pay for it,
but is looking good better than "doing good" - for yourself?

The three questions again come to mind: What? So what? Now what?
At this stage, since we have ignored the "so what?" stage, we must
deal with the "now what?" What are Black people going to do, if
anything, about this situation? On the video, there are calls for
boycotts, which could be done simply by buying your products at Black
owned stores that get their products through Black owned channels of
distribution. Oops, I almost forgot; we don't have very many of those,
do we?

But, we do have some, so let's start there. We also have a relatively
new organization, called BOBSA, the Black Owned Beauty Supply
Association (see bobsa.org or call 650 357 0073). Every venture begins
with a first step, so our "now what?" step must be taken from where we
are, with what we have, and with whoever will go. If Black people are
serious about slowing down the Korean Black Hair Care Express and
revving up an economic engine of our own in this industry, we had
better get busy buying from one another, expanding the Black channels
of distribution we already have, creating investment pools to build
warehouses and wholesale facilities, and all the other things it take to
become "players" once again.

BOBSA is advocating for those changes and more, but it needs help
from you, the consumer, on two fronts. BOBSA needs you to become a
working member and supporter, and it needs you to commit to
redirecting your spending. In addition, if you are serious, you should
locate every Black hair care products store in your area and ask the
owners to support BOBSA by becoming members. From that effort a
nationwide database can be developed and posted on BOBSA's
website, and no matter where you are in the country, you can find a
Black owned store from which to purchase your products.

Now these suggestions are not coming from an expert in the industry;
there are folks who know much more about this than I. Call upon them
and get their ideas; use them as consultants to help recapture a portion
YOUR market. Do everything it takes to hold on to what is probably the
last vestige of an industry developed and maintained by Black people.

It is, quite frankly, shameful, as I think of the great brothers and sisters I
teach about in my Black Entrepreneurship class, that we have allowed
this to happen. Nothing against the Koreans for taking care of their
business and beating us out of our own game, but are they really that
much smarter than we are? Are they more capable of running this
business than we are? Are they that much better at marketing to our
people than we? Oh, it's about the money isn't it? It always is. Do they
have more money than we? Or, is it that they use their money
collectively to help their group a lot more than we do?

Now we're getting to meat of this issue, right? We can come up with all
the excuses and reasons for being behind in a race that only Black
people ran in for years, but we cannot truthfully say that we are
consciously disturbed enough, collective enough in our thinking, and
willing to make the sacrifices necessary to do what other groups do to
build their wealth. Watch the video and you will see how it's done, just
in case you have forgotten.

I end with this challenge. Make a commitment and then follow through
on that commitment to purchase Black manufactured hair care products
from Black owned outlets. Let's write a happy ending to this
tragicomedy. One more thought: Don't envy the hair that Brandy wears;
buy your own, from your own.